The short passage out of Belize waters to Ranguana Caye was good. Once through the Belize Barrier Reef I shortened both sails in 17 knot northerly wind and headed east towards Roatan. I was soon sailing at 6.5 knots in a lively sea, and all was well. Although the wind speed slowly declined during the day, I was able to maintain a Speed over Ground of at least 5 knots. But after midnight the wind itself decreased to less than 5 knots and veered to the east, so I started the engine and motored through dawn to arrive in Fantasy Island marina on the Honduran island of Roatan at 10:00.
I took a taxi into Coxen Hole to clear in through Immigration and the Port Captain. I’m now officially in Roatan, Honduras.
The feature photograph above is the beach at Fantasy Island at sunrise.
I have already visited last year’s favourite places in West End….Sun Yoga for a yin yoga sound bath with Diane & Claudia, Sandy Buns cafe for avocado toast, Bean Crazy for coffee and Cafe de Palo for chilling out and a margarita. Yesterday, twelve cruisers from Fantasy Island marina went to Roatan Island Brewery for a Sunday afternoon of good food, craft beer, fabulous conversation, a craft market and a short tropical downpour to cool us down.
All transport and accommodation is booked, and I just have my bags to pack for my trip to Nicaragua this week…I’m also reading The Jaguar Smile: A Nicaraguan Journey by Salman Rushdie.
The journey to Nicaragua including three flights and two taxis was long and tiring. I arrived at the hostel Selina in Granada after midnight. I was then awake early enough to take some sunrise photographs around the Central Park, as seen below.
Later I did a Walking Tour, which are always interesting. This walk finished at midday, and it was already far too hot to be walking a windless city in Central America.
The following day I took a shuttle bus to San Jorge, and then a ferry across to the island of Ometepe in Lake Nicaragua. I had booked Rustic House hostel for three nights, and on my first full day my hostel host, José was my guide to hike Conception volcano, one of two volcanoes on Ometepe. Conception is special because it remains active.
We left the hostel at 6am on José’s motor scooter to arrive at the entrance to begin our hike. About 50% of hikers reach the Lookout at 1000m, and about 25% reach the summit. I reached the Lookout and decided not to attempt the final 610m. As always the hike (or run) downhill causes the most stress on legs, and the pain at the end reminded me of my marathon running days. We arrived back at Rustic House soon after midday for a shower and a nap!
On Sunday morning I was still struggling with stiffness in my legs and lower back, but was taken on an afternoon motor scooter tour of the island visiting Ojo de Agua natural spring, Playa Santo Domingo and Playa Mango.
On Monday morning I took the ferry back to San Jorge, and then a taxi to Eden on La Chocolata near San Juan del Sur on the Pacific coast of Nicaragua.
Eden on La Chocolata
Yoga Retreat
I chose Nicaragua for my 70th birthday treat yoga retreat because I hadn’t visited the country before, and I chose Eden on La Chocolata because it offers a rolling retreat for a variety of days. I chose the eight day retreat with my birthday in the middle of the eight day block.
Vinyasa yoga was early morning followed by breakfast and Yin yoga was late afternoon followed by a three course dinner. The Yin yoga session was sometimes replaced by other activities such as a Cacao Ceremony, Mantra Chant and Ecstatic Dance. The photograph below is taken from the Eden on La Chocolata website.
The food and drinks on offer were always vegan, and lunch was always a Salad of the Day. Extra activities such as a private yoga class, manicure & pedicure and massage were available daily between usual meal times. Accommodation was individual cabanas with a private bathroom and west facing veranda. A communal area included the dining room, wellness deck, and swimming pool for use by all the guests, and the yoga activities were in the large west facing Yoga Shala with a view over Playa Nacascolo. Eden on La Chocolata is completely solar powered, and the facilities and activities blend completely with Pacific coast Nicaraguan nature….it was truly what I was expecting and needing for my 70th birthday yoga retreat. I just followed the daily routine for my birthday which included an Ecstatic Dance activity leading into the sunset. One of the rules of Ecstatic Dance is that the activity remains private within the group, so I can’t tell you how good I was! It was also the birthday for Angelika, one of the two resident yoga instructors, and the kitchen staff baked us a vegan birthday cake, seen below.
I took an extra excursion into San Juan del Sur by local shuttle.
As there is a common rolling weekly schedule of events we all just join in when we arrive…and then leave. So one of the most beautiful activities is getting to know the next yogi travellers before we move on to our next destinations. Conversation is always bright!
On my last full day I watched my 1954 movie for April, A Star is Born with Judy Garland and James Mason. On the last morning I did my final Vinyasa class with Joanna, followed by a fabulous breakfast and then I will take the shuttle bus to the airport in Managua.
I celebrated my 40th birthday while living in Brazil. For my 50th birthday I ran the Comrades Ultramarathon in South Africa, and for my 60th birthday I took my boys to New York City. Eden on La Chocolata in Nicaragua has been the perfect 70th birthday yoga retreat.
The return flights were fine, and included a few hours sleep overnight in San Pedro Sula airport before taking the early morning flight to Roatan, and taxi back to the Wildbeast in Fantasy Island marina.
It is now early May and many boats are embarking on passages to get away from the Caribbean hurricane zone…south to Panama, west to Rio Dulce in Guatemala and even east to cross the Atlantic via Bermuda. Some boats remain around the back of Fantasy Island marina where the moorings are considered hurricane safe while their owners return home. I’m in no immediate hurry and will wait for the right winds to carry me south to Panama.
It is now mid-May, and I’ve just finished the fifth book on my list of books published in 1954, Story of O by Pauline Réage. There is also a possibility that the strong winds around the islands will decrease over the weekend meaning that I may be able to leave Roatan for a long and meandering passage down to Panama.
I was up well before sunrise to witness this calm view taken from the Fantasy Island resort.
Well, we’re entering the final week of May and the 1st June will mark the beginning of the 2024 Atlantic Hurricane Season. I’m still enjoying myself in Fantasy Island marina in Roatan, although I’m hoping to leave in early June to head down to Panama.
Although life spent cruising around exotic places has its pleasant side, it’s great to have an exciting day. Finally, I booked a dive with West End Divers to visit the El Águila wreck, a 200’ cargo ship purposely sank in 1997 to a depth of 33 metres to be a dive site. However, later that year it was broken in two when Hurricane Mitch hit Roatan. The dive was fabulous as we were able to enter the wreck twice to explore the interior. But towards the end of the dive as we explored the reef wall I had become too buoyant and floated to the surface! A weird experience! After an Eggs Benedict brunch in Bean Crazy coffee shop I jumped on the minibus service to head back to Fantasy Island. After a few miles of peace we were involved in a head on collision with a car overtaking from the opposite direction. The split second deafening bang followed by glass windows exploding outwards shook my senses. Then, amazingly, the passengers, including three children, just left the minibus and went on with their days activities. I waited briefly for another Mini bus to take me to the main town, Coxen Hole and then as normal, I took the next minibus to Fantasy Island stopping briefly at The Green Market to buy some food items, to end an extraordinary day. I had guessed correctly that the following day I would have a sore neck…I had sat on the minibus with my backpack on my lap so my body wasn’t flung forward in the impact, but my head and neck suffered some whiplash action. The next day I decided to listen to my stiff neck complaining and take it easy!
It’s now June, and thus the official start of the Atlantic hurricane season, and more importantly there’s a decent weather window to leave Roatan next week to head south. So I’m checking four weather forecasts on a daily basis…but first it’s the Champions League Final at Wembley Stadium, London in which Real Madrid beat Borussia Dortmond 2-0.
I’m feeling so confident about sailing on Wednesday 5 June, I have booked return flights from Panama City to London for 19 June to return to Panama on 30 July!
I sailed out of Fantasy Island marina with Brian and his boys on yacht Reminiscing, and in open sea before 8am. The easterly wind was not expected and tacked into the wind between The Bay Islands and the Honduras mainland all day. By the end of the day my VMG (Velocity Made Good) was less than three knots. I checked the latest PredictWind forecast and didn’t like what I saw. I’m happy to sail slowly and meander to my next destination…but not when I have a flight out of Panama City and family celebrations in the UK. So I turned around and headed towards Rio Dulce in Guatemala. The easterly winds made for a great passage over two nights and one day to arrive in Livingston early morning. I didn’t have the latest track over the sand bar so I requested Hector to tow me across the shallow water, and by midday I was cleared into Guatemala.
This is my last sunset in The Bay Islands of Honduras and on my way westward to Guatemala.
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